Tag: Laikipia
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Camping by the Ewaso in Ol Pejeta
In many ways, Ol Pejeta is the ideal destination for a weekend safari out of Nairobi. The drive is manageable – short enough for a one-night stay, and with plenty of good breakfast spots along the way. The views of Mount Kenya are stunning, the density of wildlife is high, and there are accommodation options […]
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On Foot With Elephants in El Karama
The shrill cry of a buff-crested bustard jolts me out of a deep sleep. It rises to a crescendo, preventing me from drifting off again. My tent glows in the soft pre-dawn light, and beside me the Ewaso Nyiro River is swollen and fast-flowing. Barking baboons warn of a passing predator in the distance. It’s […]
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Return to Laikipia’s El Karama Ranch
Some time back my son, Jan, wrote about his time at the El Karama Ranch in Laikipia. We have just been there again, this time with my daughter’s family on holiday from the UK. There is much more to say about the place than Jan could tell in 830 words – so it’s my turn […]
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Close Encounters with Hyenas in Ol Pejeta
Over the last few weeks we’ve been hosting some family from the UK for Easter, and last Sunday’s article documented the first leg of our holiday at the Mara Serena Safari Lodge. For the second leg, we were booked in at the Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages – a relatively new addition to the conservancy’s landscape. […]
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Laikipia’s Family-Friendly Eco-Lodge
I’ve spent much of 2018 in and around Kenya’s Central Highlands, from the Aberdares to the northern edge of Laikipia. I ventured this way again last weekend, for a night at El Karama Eco Lodge – a place that I’d heard lots of good things about from friends and family, and that pops up regularly […]
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Searching for Zebras in Loisaba
A few weeks ago, I wrote an article leading up to this year’s Great Grevy’s Rally (GGR): an innovative census of Kenya’s Grevy’s zebra population. Grevy’s are amongst the most endangered animals on the planet, and about 90% of their global wild population can be found in Kenya. On the weekend of 28-29 January, over […]
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Kenya’s New Glamping Experience
I first came across the term ‘glamping’ – short for glamorous camping – in 2014. A friend of mine had been pictured in the UK’s Daily Mail sipping a glass of champagne in a bell tent at the Glastonbury Festival. She was perched on the edge of a large double bed with plump pillows, beneath […]
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Il Ngwesi: A Genuine Community Eco-Lodge
Kenya’s conservation landscape has undergone somewhat of a revolution in the last decade or so. The most significant aspect has been the establishment of formal community initiatives to conserve their land and its wildlife. The Wildlife Conservation and Management Act of 2013 now allows conservation to be recognised as a legitimate land-use outside of National […]
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Doing the Lewa Marathon the Easy Way
How about taking a walk with wildlife? That’s something very special you can do towards the end of this month – and in one of the most dramatic landscapes Kenya has to offer. It’s the Lewa Marathon I am talking about – that unique event, sponsored by Safaricom and organised by the Tusk Trust. I‘m […]
Going Places Africa 